I put on my wetsuit, waxed my surfboard, and walked down to the beach. My brother and I looked at the massive surf for a while, calculating the best place to paddle out.
We waded into the water about waste high, and that’s when I got an incredibly daunting feeling…
I like to think of myself as brave, up to try scary things. But I had to chicken out of this one. I turned to my brother and said “sorry dude, I’m honestly just not fit enough to surf this big stuff” .
(It wasn’t the wave height that scared me – it was the strong currents that are most dangerous. There were only 4-5 fit young guys out that day, most of them struggling and some didn’t even make it out past the break line after 45 minutes of paddling)
Anyway, driving all the way to San Diego to surf — and then not surfing — is a real bummer. But being brave isn’t about saying yes to everything… Sometimes it’s about knowing your limits and admitting defeat.
Happy Friday everyone! Hope you’re having a great last week of the year!
This old guy turns 38 today. Cheers to another lap around the sun! 🥂