I put on my wetsuit, waxed my surfboard, and walked down to the beach. My brother and I looked at the massive surf for a while, calculating the best place to paddle out. We waded into the water about waste high, and that’s when I got an incredibly daunting feeling… I like to think of Read more about A humbling moment[…]
About three years ago, after surfing one day I got home and realized I accidentally left my surfboard leash in the beach parking lot. 😢 And every time I’ve returned to the beach since then I park there and think to myself, “this is the parking lot where I lost my favorite surfboard leash”. Well…. Read more about Life has good days and bad days[…]
Last week out surfing I noticed a photographer standing on the beach. He had a professional camera with a huge lens and was taking pictures of all the surfers! I thought to myself, “maybe now is my chance to become a famous surfer… If I surf really good and he takes some killer photos, maybe Read more about I am an idiot #10 🏄♂️[…]
Surfing last week, I overheard 2 dudes talking in the water… “You see, most people only surf on the sunny days when the weather and waves are perfect. But the trick to getting good is to surf in the bad weather and bad wave days too. If you practice when conditions are horrible, you’ll be Read more about The secret to being good at life 🏄♂️[…]
About 6 months ago I was walking on the beach. It was one of those long, soul searching walks where I was feeling stuck and trying to figure out what the heck my purpose is in life. Am I on the right path? Am I making the right career moves? Stuff like that. All Read more about Right place, right time. Look for the signs…[…]
On Wednesday I went surfing, I was out there with about 50 other people. But, out of those 50 dudes, only 5-10 were actually catching all the waves. The other 40 guys were all missing out. Why?… They were either sitting in the wrong spot, too lazy to paddle for waves, too scared they were Read more about Where there’s a will, there’s a wave[…]
I was so excited to go surfing yesterday… I woke up super early, took out my favorite board, went to my favorite surf spot, and jumped in the water eager to catch some big waves! And here’s what happened… I sucked! As soon as I started paddling, I realized how out of shape I was. Read more about Eating Humble Pie[…]
Surfing is a strange sport. About 99% of time is spent paddling and waiting, and only 1% actually standing up and riding waves. Sometimes I’m in the water for 2 hours and only catch 4-5 waves. This can be frustrating for beginners and bystanders to understand. Why go through hours of pain only to get Read more about The Surfer’s Secret[…]
Yesterday morning I went surfing. I was sitting pretty far out, things were fairly calm, until I noticed a dark, blurry presence in the water next to me. Oh shit,.. I hate that feeling… Could it be a shark? Is it my time to go? I moved very slowly. Leaning down on my board ready Read more about Hello darkness, my old friend[…]
I was out surfing yesterday. The weather was perfect, waves were great, and I even saw some baby dolphins jumping around nearby! I was loving life. But as I swam past a couple other guys, I overheard them talking… They were complaining that the water was too cold, the tide was too low, and they Read more about Why are you in the water?[…]
While surfing yesterday I noticed everyone was divided into 2 groups out in the water. The good surfers were way out at the deepest break, competing for the better waves. And the newer/beginner surfers all sat in a pack much closer to shore and caught the leftovers. I’m experienced enough to surf in either spot, Read more about Who are you surfing with?[…]